The weather forecasts were all over the place on Tuesday morning, December 26. We woke to rain and BASRA's forecast of NW winds gusting to 30+ and seas 5-9', occasional squalls. Bob went back to bed. Later in the morning, we chatted with our fellow cruisers who were still wondering whether or not they would leave. We agreed to meet at noon to discuss. All donned in our foul weather jackets and armed with other weather predictions that looked more favorable, we all decided to check out of the marina and leave. We cast the lines off SeaTryst at 1:00.
The swells were off our quarter stern, and the wind was at about 20, we put up the main and motor-sailed, rocking and rolling southeast toward Nassau. We saw a whale. Not much else to report, except the seas continued to build and the squalls came - indicating that the first forecast we'd heard in the morning was correct. You would think that we would have learned by now!
After an uncomfortable passage, at about 4:30a we entered Nassau on the heels of Barefootin with Bad Boy right behind us. Bob was a little concerned, because we had 8 foot swells following us in, and our reefed mailsail was still up. The seas were bad and the wind too strong to turn the boat into the wind to drop sail. The good news is that the entrance is wide, so we had no problems. We received permission to enter the harbor, and took our mainsail down with ease once inside. Maggie has become a master of sail dropping. We breathed a huge sigh of relief.
After 3 tries to finally hook the anchor, we got to bed about 5:45a. We heard Chris Parker's weather at 6:30a which said that if we didn't leave that day, we would not have another window for a week. We decided to stay, rather than getting beat up for another day. The others went on to the Exumas; we're sure to see them in GeorgeTown.
While in Nassau, we met Carolyn and Nick Wardle, who faithfully report weather at 7:00a each day for BASRA (Bahamas Air & Sea Rescue); they have been voluntarily doing this for 30 years.
Rosie had a rough time during our overnight passage, and at one time tried to escape the cockpit for what she probably thought was a better place (the open sea). Fortunately, Bob grabbed her, and we kept her locked below for the rest of the passage. During the week at anchor, she finds plenty of places to rest and seems to like it here.
We found a free wi-fi hotspot at News Cafe on Paradise Island and on our way there, couldn't resist taking a picture of "Paved Paradise and Put up a Parking Lot."
On our way to the grocery store, we found another wi-fi hotspot at Starbucks at Harbour Marketplace - it looks like any Starbucks you'd see in the US - people hanging out with coffee cups and glued to their laptops. Prices are slightly higher than the US. Bob wants to buy coffee futures, since Starbucks customers are willing to pay any price for a cup of coffee with a little flavoring.
We were pleased when our grocery packers, Shawn Brice and Dion Adderley stopped by for a chat on their way to retrieve City Market's carts. They told us of their plans to be at Church to ring in the New Year at midnight, and hoped to attend the carnival with rides and the Junkanoo parade. They are very enterprising and will someday own the market.
For several days, we were the only US sailboat anchored with at least a dozen French Canadian boats. In a busy harbor, we watch the activities of large ships, small Bahamian fishing skiffs, party boats, Pilot boats, dinghies, and lots of debris float by. We even saw a Haitian boat sail into the harbor, with a police escort alongside. These boats are hand made and have no engines. They are sailed from Haiti loaded with goods made there; they take back broken appliances and fix them for resale back home.
During New Year's Eve day, we walked downtown to scope things out. Stopping at Senor Frogs for a margarita and salsa/chips, we watched a cruise ship depart and fed the gulls. There had been five large cruise ships in on Saturday, and we figure about 10,000 tourists descended on the straw market and downtown.
We met Andre and Paulette on Vision D'O , who have been anchored next to us all week. They're on one of the French Canadian boats cruising the Exumas for the first time (we question whether anyone is left in Montreal). They are lovely people whom we hope to stay in touch with along the way.
Each year on Boxing Day (December 26) and January 1, is the annual Bahamian celebration of Junkanoo, "a music parade, dance exhibition, costume party and cultural extravaganza." After talking to some locals and other cruisers we debated going to Junkanoo; it starts at 1AM and ends around 6AM. We'd heard it could get rowdy and feel unsafe, especially during the 1-mile walk to downtown. It's difficult to see the parade without tickets for the bleachers which were sold out. Since we had not connected with others to go (i.e., safety in numbers) and did not have tickets, we decided to stay safely onboard SeaTryst.
Andre and Paulette had attended the Boxing Day Junkanoo and were kind to share some pictures with us. The costumes are made of cardboard, crepe paper, wire, flour and glue, and some glitter and feathers. A highly competitive event, groups design and make the costumes in "shacks," a garage or warehouse whose location is kept secret only to its members, and will often start the creation in January or February. It must be incredible to witness; thousands of participants who walk miles, up and down hills, on the parade route.
At midnight, we were awakened with a burst - what beautiful fireworks over the harbor. Maggie didn't want to miss any, so we didn't have our camera handy. You'll just have to take our word for it.
The weather looks good to depart on Tuesday, January 2, and we'll head to the Exumas, eventually arriving in GeorgeTown. That might be the next place for wi-fi and to update you.
We reminisced that last New Year's Eve we were on the Bahama Banks, anchored alone in 12' of water. We began the year in the Bahamas, and ended it in the Bahamas. Not bad!
Happy and Healthy New Year Everyone!
We wish you all fair winds and calm seas.
Love,
Maggie, Bob, Rosie and Luther